Safety Briefs:

January / February 2004 -

Hello to everyone, and welcome to an exciting year for our Chapter.  I hope this year will bring many pleasurable rides for you.

  I would like to begin by mentioning a few precautions we should consider before beginning each riding event.  First a pre-ride check should be performed on your bike, checking all of your attached accessory equipment such as bags, back rests, windshields, etc. for security.  Also, this time of the year, the air pressure in your tires is also a very important item to check. With warm and cool days and nights your tire air pressure varies quite a bit, which greatly affects the performance and safe handling characteristics of your bike.

 One important piece of equipment every rider should have available is a quality tire air pressure gauge, such as a compact Harley Davidson Tire Gauge, Part Number 75110-98, which is available at your dealership and fits nicely with your riding gear.  The next item to consider before leaving for your ride is your riding gear, which should include an approved helmet, eye protection (face shield, goggles or quality shatter resistant full coverage glasses), long sleeved shirt, full length pants, insulated under garments, jacket and leather chaps (depending on weather conditions).  Remember the wind chill factor as you ride, dress in layers during cooler days.  You can always remove unneeded garments after you’ve left home, although sometimes it’s difficult to obtain more. Your riding gear should also include, quality full-fingered gloves, and over the ankle boots or sturdy riding shoes with skid resistant soles. You will be more comfortable, alert, and will ultimately be safer and enjoy riding even more.

Mike Leak for

Ron Manning

March 2003 -

Touring Tips

Bill Shaw

After graduating from school, I decided to pursue my childhood dream of becoming a crime fighter. I was hired by a respected police department and subsequently graduated near the top of my class from the Police academy. Being a quick study and an industrious student, I eventually earned a reputation as a competent, hardworking and honest police officer. When there was no crime

left in Virginia, I went to work for the federal government in counter intelligence. After saving the world from communism, I yearned for a completely new challenge. I then decided to enter the most competitive, ruthless and unholy career path of all-motojournalism. Although I have since risen to the top of the journalism food chain, even commanding a three-figure annual salary, I never forgot what I learned as a police officer. That training and experience have come in particularly handy over the years. For those who have collected too many points on their license, the following "Top 10 Ticket Avoidance List" might be of some help; they've worked to keep me ticket-free for over 28 years.

1. Stay as far to the right as possible on multi-lane highways unless passing. Properly passing another vehicle will not single you out, but hovering in the passing lane will-regardless of your speed.

2. Beware of guilt by association. In other words, do not ride with people that do stupid things like driving recklessly, weaving in and out of lanes, failing to routinely use their turn signals, or anything that smacks of racing and road rage.

3. Never exceed the posted speed limit in a residential area, no matter how ludicrously low.

4. Never exceed the posted speed limit in a school zone, even if no kids are in sight.

5. Be alert when crossing state lines, particularly when traveling on an interstate or when there is a change in the posted speed limit. My rule of thumb is to be especially careful for 10 miles on either side of the border.

6. Be alert when passing by rest stops, truck stops and weigh stations. Police tend to watch closely places where people congregate and areas that generate the highest number of calls.

7. Be aware of any vehicle that suddenly appears in your rearview mirrors. While not a hard and fast rule, most departments do not allow the use of radar/laser equipment at night. Officers will then rely on a technique called "pacing," where a cruiser follows behind a driver (usually for at

least 2/10ths of a mile) before initiating a traffic stop.

8. Never be the fastest person on the road. Even if a cruiser is not equipped with radar/laser or the officer is not able to pace for the required distance, a ticket can still be issued for "Failure to Obey a Highway Sign," to wit, the posted speed limits.

9. Do not go more than 9 mph over the posted speed limit (even when passing a slower vehicle) on interstate or U.S. highways. In reality, it is impossible to be invisible to the police while simultaneously being conspicuous to other motorists. And going 10+ mph faster than the speed

limit, regardless of the reason, is usually not safe or prudent and increases the likelihood that you will be spotted by the police.

10. Never, ever pass on a double yellow, exceed the speed limit by 20 mph or more, or drive in a manner that endangers the life, limb, or property of any person. These activities constitute reckless driving and, in most jurisdictions, require the operator to appear in court. This could be an expensive lesson.

Seeing alternating red and/or blue flashing lights in your rearview mirror is one of the most unpleasant experiences imaginable. But although most police officers have made up their minds about issuing a ticket even before exiting the cruiser, there are still several things you can do to reduce that unintended donation to municipal coffers or, if you're lucky, even escape a ticket altogether.

1. Immediately pull over to the right shoulder of the road, turn off the motorcycle, put the side stand down, but remain seated on the bike (this is particularly important).

2. Remove your gloves and helmet and place them on the gas tank. It's always best for an officer to speak with a person face-to-face rather than to a helmeted stranger.

3. Stay on the bike with your hands on top of your helmet and keep your attention focused forward, not to the rear or on what the officer is doing. Keeping your hands in plain view is a courtesy that reduces any anxiety the officer may feel.

4. When the officer approaches and asks for your driver's license and registration, let him/her know where they are before reaching for them.

5. Lastly, do not lie when asked if you know why you were stopped. You do know it is appropriate, even expected, to be remorseful, apologetic and sometimes tearful, to minimize your involvement, and even to blame your mother for your stupidity. But to lie is disrespectful and just plain insulting.

January / February 2003 -

Limits

by Jackie Vaughan

Everything in life has limits. When we were young, we had bedtimes that were far too early, especially on a summer night, or when something good was on TV. As we got older, curfews and the frustrations of limited spending money chafed us. We were pretty much controlled by how often and how long we could borrow the car. Still, we stretched and broke the limits with only minor repercussions.

As riders we have limits, too, and these, unlike legal limits such as speed and right-of-way, can only be stretched so far before the consequences become very dire indeed. These limits are our personal limits, the limits of our machines, and the limits of our environment. To ride safely, we must know these limits and ride within them. This would be a fairly easy task if the limits were fixed and separate. However, they are each highly variable and intertwined so that one can affect the others.

Personal limits change constantly. There are the slow, but perceptible signs of aging when we finally don glasses that eventually give way to bifocals and when hearing dims. As we reach the over-the-hill age of 40, night vision begins to lessen. With any luck, skill and experience provide compensation.

Not even the young among us are immune to personal limits. We are all susceptible. These limits can be imposed by physical conditions such as fatigue or emotion or by medications, both over-the counter and prescription.

 New prescriptions can have unexpected side effects, and drug interactions can produce terrifying reactions. Medications should be carefully discussed with doctor and pharmacist before we ride.

Getting all prescriptions filled at the same pharmacy lessens the chance of a conflict or overdose not being spotted. Recreational drugs create dangers that should be obvious.

Over-the-counter drugs frequently pose problems. Almost every label on allergy medications carries the warning, "May cause drowsiness. Do not operate heavy machinery while taking this medication." By heavy machinery they don't mean bulldozers or tanks. They mean cars and trucks and motorcycles and riding lawnmowers and anything else where a drowsy, dizzy or uncoordinated operator could have an accident. Almost every skill needed to safely operate a motorcycle is affected by such medicines.

Even when we're at our physical best, our motorcycles pose limits. Obvious ones are type and power. A fully loaded touring bike is not made to ride over sand dunes at the beach, nor is a two-up 125-cc bike safe on the interstate. Even the best-maintained bike is subject to routine wear and tear. New tires are slick until the mold release wears off. Cheap tires can offer poor traction under even optimum conditions. Brake pads wear. A poorly cared for bike is two-wheeled disaster.

Even when our bikes and we are in tip-top condition, the environment can sharply define our limits. A twisty back road is a joy on a warm sunshiny day. The same road on a cold, wet night is a rider's nightmare. Cold can dull our reflexes and slow our reaction times. Numbed hands operate controls more slowly and with less feedback, making full-braking stops less effective. Nature can brush a road with sand or mist it with rain or fog. Our only choice is to slow down and to avoid any sudden changes in speed or direction. We should never be so dumb that we don't realize it is time to get off the road.

Our limits, the limits of our machines, and natural limits, all combined in endless permutations, are part of the challenge of motorcycling. Knowing these limits and riding within them are part of the responsibility of motorcycling. And that is part of the joy of motorcycling.

December 2002 -

Winter Warmups

We're lucky that we have a virtual year-round riding season. However, when the mercury hides in the bottom of the little red bulb, we have to make some changes in our riding style.

One of the big enemies of riders is hypothermia. Riding at highway speeds in cool or cold weather can deplete a rider's body heat and leave him numb and fuzzy-headed before he realizes what has happened.

Even when the temperature is in the 60's, the wind chill factor at speeds over 40 miles per hour is in the low 30's. Riders often misjudge how cold the ride will be because they are freshly out of a warm house and standing still in the warm sunshine. At temperatures below 70°, they should dress in multiple layers, adding and subtracting as necessary. Not only do multiple layers provide versatility, they also create insulated pockets of warm air. While it is common for riders to put on sweatshirts and jackets, the lower body is often ignored.

Thermals and chaps keep feet and knees flexible and ready to function. Thermal socks and ski-sock liners help keep toes cozy. Many ski shops offer an excellent variety in various weights. The old gray variety with the red toes will do the job also. A well-designed winter riding suit, made especially for motorcycling, isa little bulky but a very welcome addition to any rider's wardrobe.

Lightweight riding gloves do little to protect from the cold, and supple hands are critical to quick responses to unexpected hazards. An insulated glove or winter riding gloves with gauntlet flares help keep hands toasty. Some riders add ski glove liners, or use three-finger mittens for added warmth. They should be aware, however, that any added bulk may make operating the controls more awkward.

A face shield is essential, and it should be firmly snapped in place. Those wearing three-quarter helmets may want to consider a ski type mask or muffler to keep the chin and throat warm. There are excellent masks which cover the throat, mouth, and nose with a material similar to a lightweight wetsuit, yet allow the rider to breathe and speak comfortably. The dealership may have them, and other types of “Cold Weather Gear”.

A luxurious, although expensive, way to keep warm is with an electric suit, gloves, socks, and even heated grips. They draw little current, but offer a lot of overall warmth.

Co-riders should be afforded the same clothing or more, since they often don't get the same protection from the fairing that the rider does.

There's a whole different world of riding in the winter, and we can enjoy it to its fullest if we dress properly.

November 2002 -

Picking Up a Downed Bike

By James R. Davis

OK, so most motorcyclists go to a parking lot to practice riding skills, not to dump their bikes so they can have the pleasure of picking them up again. I guess Elaine and I are not exactly 'normal' - we like to think of ourselves as 'odd ducks' - because a few weeks ago we did just that.

After Elaine practiced driving the Road King by herself I had her dump it on its left side for me. Though she was not going to try to pick it up herself, since she had never dumped the Road King before I wanted her to learn how to do it without ending up under the thing.

She dumped it on grass covered firm ground and then I approached the bike and considered all I had heard about how to pick up 700 pounds of bike by myself. I weigh in at only about 160 lbs. and am only 5'8" high. Frankly, I wasn't at all sure I could do it and had studied the advice of others to try to avoid doing something that could hurt me.

Virtually everything I had read in the past on the subject argued that you are not to try to lift the bike with your arms or back - that you should use the largest muscles in your body instead - your legs. So that is exactly what I intended to do - and this practice event would be more learning than practice for me as I had never before tried to pick up a downed Road King by myself.

Let me tell you that a dumped bike on grass is harder to pick up than one on the street for two reasons:

1.  The case guard and rear guard dig into the ground just a little, but that makes the lean angle of the down bike significantly more than it would be if it were laying on pavement.

2.  Getting good traction with your feet on grass can be iffy at best.

The significance of the fact that the bike rests lower when on ground versus pavement is that you are often unable to get a low enough purchase on it to bring it up without lifting. That is, the secret to 'picking up' a big bike by yourself is that you PUSH it up rather than LIFT it up, and if it is laying over at more than a 45 degree angle you will have to do some lifting!

The smaller the angle of lean (relative to vertical), the easier it is to make that angle still smaller. In other words, it is the first inch or so of movement that is the hardest. So, the very first thing you should do is try to get the lean angle to be as small as possible. If you are on an incline, for example, twist the bike until its tires are facing downhill.

The next thing you do is to turn the front wheel as far as possible TOWARDS the ground. If possible, turn it to its stop and lock it in place. (I found that on the ground I could not get mine turned all the way - perhaps I am not strong enough, or the bike was leaned too far over.) You may have to jerk hard on the handlebar to get the wheel turned, but this is a very important step. Why?

 Because by turning the wheel towards the ground the frame of the motorcycle is lifted off the ground. This means you are reducing the lean angle before you even begin to try to pick up the machine.

If the bike happens to be on its left side, you should check that the side stand is up, if possible. If it is on its right side, you MUST make sure the side stand is down (before you pick up the bike!)

If possible, insure that the bike is in a low gear so that there is minimal chance of the bike rolling when you get it back on its wheels.

Next, you are going to plant your butt (not your hip) on the seat. So, face away from the motorcycle and lean against the seat such that the top half of your cheeks are above your contact with the seat and the bottom half are pressed solidly against the seat. Your feet should be spread no wider than your shoulder width and planted FIRMLY (you are wearing RUBBER SOLED boots, right?) on the ground away from the bike by about three feet. Your knees should be bent at about a 40 to 50 degree angle - anything more than that and you will probably not be able to straighten them. Indeed, though you want some bend, the less bend in your knees that you can manage, the easier this effort will be - what limits your choice is the length of your legs.

Now you need to grasp your motorcycle with your hands on both sides of your body. You need to hold onto firm structures, but because you should not be doing anything with your hands other than guiding and possibly a little lifting when you start, they can be parts of your fairing, a firmly mounted part of your backrest, a passenger handrail, under your seat, or handlebar. What you hold is not very important except that it is firmly attached (no give) and is conveniently located.

Now simply walk backwards as you PUSH against the seat. (I remind you that if the bike has a lean angle of 45 degrees or more you must also LIFT - be careful!)

As you approach vertical the vast majority of the bike's weight will be on the tires. Proceed slowly so as to prevent going too far and causing it to fall over on its other side. Once vertical, still facing away from the motorcycle, fish for the side-stand with your foot and bring it down. Then just let the bike lean over onto the stand.

If the bike had been on its right side when you started you already made sure that the side stand was down. So, in this case you simply ease the bike past vertical and let it come to rest on that side stand. Please note that if you are on an incline, my earlier instruction had you twist the bike such that the wheels face down slope. In this case you will need to be VERY careful about how fast you let the bike go past vertical or you may find yourself having to pick it up again from the other side! Indeed, it may be impossible for you to ease it past vertical without losing control of the bike again. (In this case I would try to change my body position so that it is facing the front of the bike (while it is vertical) and try to push the bike to a more level location - but REMEMBER that your side stand is down!)

So now you know what I learned out there on the parking lot with Elaine. I was successful in picking up my Road King by myself after she dumped it on its left side - but because of the very severe lean angle caused by the fact that the guards dug themselves partly into the dirt I had to do considerable lifting at the beginning. This left my upper thighs sore from the effort. Still, I had done it and the feeling of success was more important than the slight quivering of my thigh muscles.

I had Elaine dump the bike again, this time on its right side. After insuring that the side-stand was down and locked I successfully repeated the lift maneuver by myself. Again, my upper thighs were sore as a result. But let me tell you how happy I was to discover that I could actually pick up a dumped Road King by myself!! It was not easy, but nobody expected it to be - though it was easier than I expected it to be.

This is after all why we went out to the parking lot - to practice what we each felt was hard for us individually - so that whatever it was would become easier.  It is better to take time and practice things that could happen on the road before you have to practice it for real!!!

Ride Smart – Ride Safe

July 2002 -

 I’m Safe

by Jackie Vaughan

Many people use a checklist to prepare for a trip. It might include gas, tire pressure, first aid kit, et cetera. One item often missing is the condition of the rider himself. Yet the rider’s condition is at least as important as the condition of the bike.

There is a checklist which allows the rider to check out himself before every trip. Easy to remember, the list is called I’m Safe. It stands for illness, medication, stress, alcohol, fatigue and emotion. Let’s take a look at how each of these factors affects us.

Illness:

Many illnesses such as diarrhea, headache or fever can blunt our senses and affect our ability to scan aggressively for hazards or our ability to react to these hazards quickly. Recovering from an illness can do the same.

Medication:

Medication such as sleeping pills, even taken the night before, or antihistamines can make us drowsy. Antibiotics do a good job of fighting infections but also leave us fatigued for several days.

Stress:

Just before a trip is not the best time to air our problems. We will be in a much better mood after a good trip. Take time to relax before starting. Another thing to remember: don’t bring the kids.

Alcohol:

Alcohol can be summed up in a single phrase-one drink per hour. Make sure there is no alcohol in your system before you ride.

Fatigue:

Working long hours at physical labor before a trip is a sure way to start the trip with fatigue.

Emotion:

We are all aware that being angry or sad at can keep our mind off our riding, but we should know that being very happy can do the same. We need to take time to think things out before we start.

June 2002 -

Stop the Machine!

An Article by Robert Vaughan

"Did you see that car? He came from behind that 18-wheeler and ran the red. I almost hit him." Has this ever happened to you? Ever wonder just how fast you can stop your bike?  With a few good techniques and a little practice the answer is a lot faster than you think. The two main techniques are squeezing the front brake rapidly instead of grabbing it, and taking advantage of the weight shift to use even more front brake. The practice takes just a few minutes in a parking lot about three times a year.  As you start braking, about half your weight is on each wheel. If you apply both brakes hard without grabbing the front brake, your weight will shift forward and you can squeeze the front brake even harder, while you let up a little on the rear. It takes only about half a second for your weight to shift so you can add more front brake. It is because of this weight change that about 70% of your braking power is on the front. When all the extra weight shifts forward, the front tire gets harder to lock, while the rear gets easier to lock.  If you ever lock the front tire, release the front brake and come right back down on it. This is exactly the opposite of what you want to do with the rear if it locks. You can release a locked rear if you're perfectly straight, but if you've turned sideways and you unlock the rear wheel, you can do a highside--not something you do for fun!  A parking lot is the perfect place to practice-an empty parking lot that is. No need to terrorize the populace while they're trying to use the lot. Start out at 10-15 miles per hour. The techniques are the same for any speed, but you don't need as much room to practice in if your speed is lower.  When you go back to the streets, you need to add only one more technique--looking out for the other guy. If you're braking hard, this means checking your mirrors before you start to make sure you're not being tailgated. If you're in a situation where you might have to brake suddenly, cover both brakes to cut your reaction time to about half. This shaves a few feet off what by now is your already- impressive stopping distance.  Rain can affect your stopping distance more than it affects your technique. You can't stop as quickly in the rain. Because you can't brake as hard, not as much of your weight shifts forward. That means braking less hard overall and using a smaller percentage of front brake. Otherwise, techniques are the same.  Having some jerk with the brains of a carburetor pull out in front of you while you're turning around in a parking lot adds another factor--stopping in a curve. When this happens, straighten the handlebars and the bike. Then stop. Don't try to mix the two.  These few techniques and a little practice should get your stopping off to a good start.

May 2002 -

Hot!

by Jackie Vaughan

Hot summer days make a convection oven look positively chilly. Riding in hot weather presents its own challenges. However, rather than staying home and missing all the fun, with a little planning it is still possible to enjoy our favorite roads.

Dressing properly is very important. A T-shirt and shorts are not the answer. Exposed skin is not only dangerous in a crash, it’s a major source of dehydration and sunburn. Add to that the long-term danger of skin cancer and covering up becomes the clear choice. Cover all exposed skin to reduce dehydration. There are some specialized clothes that purport to have UV resistance built in, but they are a bit on the pricey side. A long-sleeve cotton shirt, cotton jeans, and gloves, all normal safety wear, are the clothing of choice. Many riders use the old biker’s trick of soaking the body of a heavy cotton sweatshirt in water, leaving as much water in the shirt as possible. The sleeves are left dry from the elbows down, as well as from the waist down, to allow for moisture wicking down. The wet shirt becomes an evaporative cooler that leaves the rider in blissful comfort for at least an hour.

Apply plenty of sunscreen to the face and back of the neck, and if gloves are not worn, to the backs of the hands. Look for a product that is strongly water-resistant so it won’t run into the eyes from perspiration. Use at least SPF 30, and since sunscreen loses potency with age, make sure it’s fresh. Most people fail to put on enough sunscreen and do not reapply throughout their ride.

Start the ride well-hydrated, taking in at least a quart of liquid before departure. Contrary to logic, this will not necessitate extra pit stops. Take in at least a quart of liquid such as water or sports drinks every hour. If the temperature or heat index is very high, double that intake, since fluid loss can top a gallon an hour. Riders who do not need to make a pit stop every couple of hours are dehydrating and should sharply increase their fluid intake.

Break the ride into segments with extended cool-off periods every couple of hours. These can be refreshment stops, points of interest, or just spending 30 or 40 minutes in a cool gas station, sipping a sports drink. Caffeine tends to increase dehydration, as does alcohol.

Know the signs of heat exhaustion (profuse sweating, dizziness, flushed face, weakness, muscle cramps) and heat stroke (no sweating, pale face, shallow respiration, collapse). Riders and co-riders should watch for them in themselves and in others. At the first signs, seek a cool place and cool the victim down as quickly as possible. In heat stroke, seek emergency medical help.

With a little preparation and common sense, beating the heat is a lot more fun than staying home.

Safety Bob